That summer, I spent two months in Germany’s capital, Berlin. I was lucky with the weather: temperatures often climbed above 25°C, and it hardly rained.
I stayed in Friedrichshain, on the eastern side of the city. On my first day, I understood why Hoodmapscalled it a “hipster capital.”
? So the neighborhood in which I will stay in Berlin is named "hipster capital" on @hoodmapsapp?? https://t.co/mGjI0iccNr pic.twitter.com/pCXcdKZOEH
— Gijs Heerkens??? (@gijsheerkens) 20 April 2018
That label did not feel exaggerated. I saw people walking barefoot, playing music, and smoking weed in the street. The city struck me in a few bullet points:
- It felt far less formal and orderly than my stereotype of Germany.
- It is huge, but easy to explore by bike.
- People often drink beer on the street.
- Many shops and bars preferred cash.
- Some bars and clubs seemed to have no closing time.
- Murals were everywhere.
A different side of Germany
Berlin surprised me. I had imagined Germany as organized and strict; the atmosphere I found here was looser and more improvised. Bikes were parked all over the pavement, and people drank cans of beer on street corners, although it's forbidden by law. The Polizei did not seem bothered. The streets themselves were broad and orderly, but the social atmosphere was informal. I liked that contrast.
Bicycles
One of the first things I do in a new city is find a bike. I love exploring streets and dislike relying on public transport—and I am Dutch, after all. On my second day in Berlin, I bought a blue former rental bike. Later, I noticed how many bike-sharing schemes were available in Berlin. That gave me an idea for a new project, biking.city.
Späties
A Spätie (or Spätkauf) is a late-night shop, often with a table outside. Many have a beer fest table set where people can sit with a beer. I liked how easily those tables turned strangers into company.
There seemed to be at least one Späti on every street. At one of them, I met my good friend, a fellow digital nomad named Stefan Meier.
Paying with cash
Many Berlin bars and shops did not accept cards when I visited. I was surprised to find myself carrying cash so often in a major European city.
Club culture
Berlin’s club scene is famous. I lived a few hundred meters from the techno club Berghain. I am not much of a clubgoer, but the nightlife was hard to miss. Some clubs ran from Thursday night into Tuesday afternoon. You could spot people leaving them while others were already starting their day.
Murals everywhere
The history of the Berlin Wall was visible throughout the city. When I visited, the Wall had fallen less than 30 years earlier, and some eastern neighborhoods still carried traces of that division.
I also found large murals across this part of Berlin. I made a bicycle route to visit my favorites.
My Berlin song
I choose one song to represent my memories of each place I stay. For Berlin, it is Avicii’s Hey Brother, because he died while I was there.